Rafting the Main Fork of the Salmon River

by Alden Kahn 

If you love boating as much as we do at CKS, then you most likely agree that there is no week better spent than a week on the river. However, you are probably also aware that these precious weeks are often rare and hard to come by.. It is for this reason that pulling a permit or receiving an invitation for one of the United States coveted multi-day river trips is often more exhilarating than the whitewater itself. This is especially true for the legendary Main Fork of the Salmon River, which embodies all of the best qualities of a multi-day river trip. With beautiful campgrounds with expansive sandy beaches that would be at home in the Caribbean, a steady mix of exciting whitewater and relaxing slackwater, and many unique riverside attractions, it is no mistake that the Main Salmon is widely renowned by whitewater enthusiasts as one of the best rivertrips in the U.S. 

This July, I was fortunate enough to be invited on a six day trip on the Main Salmon with a group of fifteen friends. In this post, I will discuss what to expect on a multi-day river trip like the Salmon and share gear recommendations.  Keep in mind that the river was around 5,100 CFS on the Whitebird gauge during my trip, which is a low-water level for this section.  

Pre-Trip Logistics

The put-in at the Corn Creek in Shoup, Idaho  is fairly remote (even by the standards of Idaho), and the shuttle is nearly 12 hours in one direction. I was lucky enough to have a great friend set up our shuttle, since the shuttle companies such as Central Idaho River Shuttles charge over $500 per vehicle. Regardless of your transportation plans, remember that all watercraft need Idaho invasive species stickers and will be inspected in North Fork, which is near the boat ramp in Corn Creek.

On the way to the put-in after stopping at North Fork, stop at the Ramshead Lodge near the put-in and grab one of their delicious burgers or test your luck at their “beer ladle” challenge: a boater’s tradition. Try to get to the put-in a day early in order to rig your boat and assess the campgrounds. One unique aspect of the Main Salmon is that it has a mix of reservable and non-reservable campgrounds. In order to reserve a campground you must be at the Corn Creek Ranger Station by 9am on the day of your put-in in order to figure out your campground situations with the other groups departing that day. After finishing your campground selection, filling your water, and a quick orientation by the ranger you will be all set to begin your journey.

Day 1

After departing Corn Creek you should expect a pretty mellow day of whitewater with the first named rapid: Killum (class 2) being a great representative of the sort of rapids which you will be encountering throughout the trip. A foreboding horizon line gives way to a steep but simple right-down-the-middle drop followed by a fun wave train. This pool drop rapid with a large horizon line and fun waves is very characteristic of many of the named class 2 rapids on the  Main Salmon. Make sure to check out the Legend Creek Pictographs approximately 4.5 river miles in. These pictographs are perhaps the most vibrant and well preserved pictographs I have ever seen, easily rivaling those of the American SouthWest. After stopping at the pictographs and completing 17 river miles on the first day our group decided to camp at the Motor campground: a reservable large and shady campground with a great beach. 

Day 2

Our second day of the float became our leisure day as we decided to only do six river miles over the entirety of the day. Despite the leisurely pace the day began with some excitement as we stopped to scout our first major rapid: the powerful Black Creek Rapid (class 3-4). This rapid is in my opinion the most fun rapid on the entire trip, however I would recommend scouting this rapid as it is imperative that you enter the rapid in the correct place, at least at low water. After Black Creek Rapid make sure to stop at the masonry hot springs tub located on the river left at mile 22.5. This unique hot springs tub has just enough room for 15 people and has a unique drain plug system that is fairly unique in wild hot springs. After only 6 miles this day we decided to camp at Sandy Hole: a large and especially sunny beach located around river mile 23.5.

Day 3

We called Day 3 our “whitewater day” as it would include the most concentrated stretch of rapids on the Main along with at least three class 3-4 rapids that deserve serious consideration. I will refrain from giving specific beta for each of them however,  and instead focus on the Sapp Creek Rapid, a former class 2 rapid that was expanded by a mudslide this summer transforming the rapid into a formidable class 3 with an intimidating horizon line. This rapid deserves attention as it is not included on most guidebooks and is likely to frequently change in the following years. After nearly 21 miles on this day we were thoroughly exhausted and decided to camp at Groundhog Bar, a beautiful camp located on a beach in a solid swimming eddy right next to Whiplash Rapid. 

Day 4

Our 4th day was the most memorable.  While the whitewater was mellow,  this section is full of interesting attractions. Beginning at Groundhog Bar we floated around six miles to the infamous homestead of Buckskin Bill. You will know to pull over when you see a makeshift fortification overlooking the left side of the river. Pull over on the left at the large beach and make your way up to the compound to view the museum and store dedicated to Buckskin Bill, and make sure to try one of their signature beer floats. Before you leave Buckskins remember to fill your water! Shortly after departing Buckskins you will arrive at the confluence of the mighty South Fork of the Salmon River, my group made sure to try to float the lower 500 feet of that river on our backs in order to add it to our resume. Directly following the confluence is the beginning of a beautiful black canyon surrounding a painfully slow section of river referred to as “the Lakes”. After pushing through the Lakes in a raft pontoon we arrived at one of the best campgrounds of the trip: Swimming Hole. 

Day 5

Our last full day on the river had a somber feel as we departed from Swimming Hole and made our way down a fairly uneventful section of river. We made sure to stop at the “Magical Yew Forest” a remnant of a tree farm operation; and the Polly Bemis Ranch, a historic and utopian feeling property which is partially open to the public. This day we ended our travels at the Upper Salt Creek Campground a mere eight miles from our takeout the next day.

Day 6

Our 6th and final day on the river involved getting up earlier at 5:30 am following a long stormy night. We quickly packed and then set off down the river towards the Carey Creek Boat Ramp. Only a mile above the ramp we encountered Vinegar Rapid, one of the most fun and serious rapids on the river. Don’t let the location fool you as this rapid definitely deserves serious consideration. After arriving at Carey Creek and quickly derigging our gear and moving out of the way our trip was over. After 6 days and 83 miles we were forced to Adjust to the hustle and bustle of the small boat ramp and we realized that we had indeed returned to civilization on the famed “River of No Return”. 

Gear Recommendations

One piece of gear that I brought that made rowing the 85 miles in that boat a joy was an Ecoxgear Ecojourney; a perfect combination of a speaker, drybox, and portable battery. I strapped the Ecojourney to the frame right next to the captain’s chair and the outside buttons allowed me to easily and securely control my music while floating down the river. The Box kept my gear dry and after playing music often for nearly six days and charging multiple phones, the Ecojourney still had more power left. Another great addition was my Watershed Ocoee which I kept near me as a day-drybag: complete with lunch, a basic first aid kit, extra layers, and sunscreen. The watershed bag’s uniquely designed seal allowed me to easily find and access my goods while it remained attached to the frame via a small cam strap attached to one of the bag’s many lash points. For my camping drybag I used an 110-liter NRS Bill’s Bag which had more than enough room for all of my camping gear and clothing, along with multiple lash points for simple and secure stowing and comfortable backpack straps that made hauling the bag to my camp spot effortless. 

Alden Kahn is a student at Whitman College and guided for New Mexico River Adventures for two summers.